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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 46
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Okay--thinking on this a bit more... almost placed the order today. Would I be better off ordering two 10" subs and wiring them in parallel, or will I get the same volume and "punch" out of the one 10" DVC wired in parallel? The two 10" subs would be driven with 205w RMS each (I suppose... don't know if there are any losses doing that), where the single DVC sub would be getting all 410w. Of course, the subs max capacity is 350w, so it couldn't use all 410w. Now... I read in an article that the subs power rating (in this case, Polk rec'ds 100w RMS min and 350w max) on the min side is just to get it moving, and that for best performance it typically needs to be in the top 2/3rds of the subs power range. In this case, that would be 267w. So--would I be better off with a fully amplified DVC 10" sub, or a slightly above min specs for two 10" subs?
Last edited by JonathanEngr; 08-20-2010 at 02:39 AM. |
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#17 |
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,335
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Because of your limited power if you have room for 2 10's then i would just go with 1 12.....then you can give it almost full power and you will have more output than just the single 10.
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#18 |
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 46
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I'm waiting to hear back from my dealer, but I'm not sure the 12 is going to fit. I planned to put this on one of the storage consoles under the seat, but maybe I have to choose a different location. Let me see if I can get a picture to post on here and describe it a little better. It'll be my next message.
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#19 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 46
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Okay--let me see if this works and then I'll edit the post with my text....
http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/5200/windjammer24.jpg Let's see if that worked. Okay.... the image doesn't pop up but the link is there. Anyway, if you'll look at the one seat bench you'll see the 6.5" factory speaker... it looks like it takes up more than 1/2 of the height of the bench. I was going to mount the sub in the bench in the very back, behind the captain's seat (the seat framing is sheet aluminum, and I was going to remove the carpet from the front of the sub box, mount it to the inside of the seat bottom and seal it against it, rout a hole in the seat bottom and mount the sub in the hole. Since the seat bottom is flat, I can get a good, tight seal to that and the box is sealed against the seat bottom and viola! A flush-mounted sub with a sealed enclosure). I've even thought about going with two 8" subs to make sure it will fit, but that's also double the work (two boxes to mount, etc.). The actual captain's stand is full of stuff, so no room in there... not to mention I don't want the 12" sub shaking my controls! LOL! Perhaps one of the reclining seatbacks will work, but if you looks closely there are decorative "ridges", so putting a sealed enclosure inside one of these seatbacks, cutting a hole and mating the sub, hole and interior box might be a problem (it won't seal tightly due to the ridges). I might be able to just fit the sub in an enclosure and put the whole assembly into one of these, but will it not sound better if the face of the sub is exposed? There would be room in the back of the boat where the sun bench is, but I'm having a toilet installed back there. I did, however, plan to install the amp back in this location. I guess I could always just put the box freestanding behind the captains seat, but I can't find any beige pre-made boxes (beige will be the color of the carpeting... really don't want to make a sub box), and the bottom of the box will get wet often in that location (I guess I could place some rubber feet on the corners). It's just going to stick out and be in the way, though. Any other suggestions? Last edited by JonathanEngr; 08-20-2010 at 11:47 AM. |
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#20 |
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Mod supervisor - bring me some coffee
Posts: 11,909
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if it were me id build a box and put it behind the captains chair, I'd build it kind of like a home theater box where the box is on some sturdy legs and the sub faces down to avoid it being splashed or punctured. I'd have the legs attach to a platform that sticks out more than the box so i could bolt it to the floor easy.
looking kind of like this but with a board at the base that is wider each way than the box http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...dx15-pics.html Last edited by rasheedfan2005; 08-20-2010 at 05:29 PM. |
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#21 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 46
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Okay--the top mount depth on this thing is 4 11/16 inches. Does that mean 4 11/16 inches at full excursion?? In other words, if I build a box out of 3/4" wood and mount the 12" in it, then after the 3/4" thickness I would need an additional 3 15/16 inches to the back of the next piece of wood, for an overall cabinet depth of 4 11/16 inches, correct? I am thinking of building a wide yet thin box and standing it up along the interior wall (so it doesn't obstruct people coming in and out). Would that work? Are my calcs correct?
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 46
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Something like these (but build it to have 0.88 cubic feet of volume):
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...orm+S120S.html Question--they say you can use fiberfill with a smaller box to make it perform larger. Would it work if I used one of these shown above (0.67 cubic feet) with fiberfill? Would it mess up the subs sound? |
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#23 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 1
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If your amp is blowing fuses, shorting frequently, or abnormally overheating it is commonly caused from an improper ground.
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#24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 1
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Audio good marine sub
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 1
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Yes, always make sure the system is properly grounded... make sure a professional is installing your system, if you are unsure. And to the topic of marine subwoofers, JL Audio's M and MX series is the way to go... http://citimarinestore.com/en/64-jl-...ine-subwoofers
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