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Old 08-17-2010, 09:44 PM   #1
JonathanEngr

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Best Marine Subwoofer

I just ordered a new performance pontoon, and want the sound to go with it. The factory equips it with minimal audio, so I'm trying to get the right parts to outfit the boat. I've already selected my speakers (Polk db651's as suggested from this forum) and amps (right now looking at the Kicker ZXM700.5), but the one thing I'm lacking is a good, high-volume, hard-hitting sub that is marine rated. It seems everywhere I turn you see stellar reviews of one sub, but it gets destroyed by people in other reviews. I had been looking mainly at Polk subs (the MM840), but just don't know. Can anyone rec'd anything? Thanks!
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Old 08-17-2010, 09:47 PM   #2
JonathanEngr

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FYI--I'll be running a 250 HP Evinrude ETEC HO engine, which will give me 50 dedicated amps for electronics. Def want to keep it below that--if possible!
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:31 PM   #3
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JL Audio makes a pretty good marine sub. A bit pricey though.
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:23 PM   #4
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The Polk MM's are very nice......the more and more I hear them the better I like them (Polymer cone and rubber surrounds) but I am not sure how marine worthy they are.

I have used the Clarion marine subs and they have lasted 4 years and counting....They are very durable but lack a little in SQ and are slightly above average for output. Most of the marine subs I looked at when I was shopping for mine, used synthetic rubber surrounds and synthetic spiders, along with a polymer coated basket to keep them from rusting in the humidity. Not sure how long a sub without these preventative measures would be able to last. I was originally going to go with a "normal" sub and just build a single reflex bandpass enclosure to try to isolate the sub as much as possible from the elements on the boat. But in the end i decided to go with a marine sub.
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:43 AM   #5
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Well, my plan is to actually build a box for the sub and create a "lip" or outer ring for the actual sub to mount air-tightly to. I'll then cut a hole in the seat base large enough for the ring to pass through and then mounting the sub. This way I have a flush-mount sub that is actually in an enclosure. I've been toying with the idea of a free air sub (which I think JL Audio's are), but I keep hearing very, very mixed reviews on free air subs. As far as a bandpass box goes, I just don't know where I'd put it...???

Mordrid--so you like the sound of the Polks? Do they hit pretty hard and put out good volume? I thought of going with the 8" because I like tight bass, but would I be just as well off to get the 10"? Would the sound output be much greater?
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:03 AM   #6
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You will get quite a bit more output from the 10, and the 10 only needs .66 cu ft to shine with the Polk MM's. the 12 only needs .88 if that is an option too. IMO if you like a little bass you will want at least a 10 and possibly a 12 because your boat does not benefit from cabin gain like a car does. But yes the Polk MM's hit hard and sound clean too. I would put the Polk ahead RF and kicker, and i will catch hell for it, but I actually put the Polk MM's performance pretty even with the IDQ.
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:05 PM   #7
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Thanks so much for your input. Dealing with marine audio I'm somewhat limited, but I'm glad there are some subs out there that will definitely perform well.

One other question... the 10" sub (not sure if a 12 will fit--waiting to hear back from my dealer on dimensions) has a max RMS rating of 350w (rec'd range of 100w RMS to 350w RMS). I know that some subs don't really come into their own until you feed them the upper-end of their power handling. The amp I intend to use (Kicker ZXM700.5) have 70w RMS for the 4 speakers, and 210w RMS for the sub. Will 210w do a good job driving the 10"? Supposedly, Kicker amps output ratings always exceed the posted power capability (or so they say). Do yo uthink this amp will do a good job? The price point for that amp, and the fact I'll just have to run one set of power cables for the single amp (not to mention there are very few places to mount an amp on a pontoon where it will be somewhat protected yet have some ventilation), is perfect for my setup.
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:12 PM   #8
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That amp has more than enough power.......it is rated on the sub channel at 400rms if it is the 2008 model and 420rms on the 2010 model at 2ohms. So just buy the Polk MM1040 DVC, and wire it to 2 ohms and you will be fine.
I had that same amp (2008) model in my other work truck before I sold it and it was well under rated....
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Old 08-19-2010, 01:02 AM   #9
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Really? All of the literature I see says 210w RMS for the sub channel...???
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Old 08-19-2010, 01:06 AM   #10
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Nevermind... got it! 420w when wired at 2 ohms. I've never done that before... I'll have to check a wiring schematic. I see that I'll need the DVC, though.
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Old 08-19-2010, 01:11 AM   #11
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Okay--so to wire the DVC for a 2-ohm load, I'll wire the hot lead to one set of connections, the negative to the other set of connections, and then run a wire from the remaining two connections to each other, correct?
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Old 08-19-2010, 01:14 AM   #12
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Or do I go from the amp's positive side to both positives, and the negative side to both negatives? I assume I'll want to wire it in parallel?
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:52 AM   #13
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This will make it a lot easier for you......
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp

Just enter that you have 1 DVC 4ohm and it will show you a diagram of how to wire it.
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Old 08-19-2010, 01:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonathanEngr View Post
Or do I go from the amp's positive side to both positives, and the negative side to both negatives? I assume I'll want to wire it in parallel?
correct .
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Old 08-19-2010, 05:27 PM   #15
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Great--thanks!
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