problem with amps

[cowboy41321]

I recently installed 2 amps in my truck with a distribution block, one amp for my subs and the other for my tweeters. At first everything was fine and as i turned it up it all shut off. I figured i blew a fuse and since i had to amps i bought a 100 amp fuse to help the problem. It didnt help and neither of my amps will turn on now even if i install only one of them and not both. it is not in protect mode and i didnt smell any burning after they cut off. please if someone knows what happened let me know.

[Magnet2k2]

Just an idea...check your ground to make sure it is tight and also make sure your gain or level is not up too high...you said the protect light didnt come on but it cud mean tht ur subs r wired at the wrong ohms than ur amp's impedence but since the protect light didn't come on i doubt it...just some thoughts

[wideglide340]

you should check the remote turn on lead. you can just jump a wire from 12v + jsut to see if the amps work

[geolemon]

Did you test the fuse?
You want to confirm that you DID blow the fuse - and that's not something that you can visibly check, either, with glass fuses - they often blow where they meet the end caps of the fuse. ;)

Anyway, that's beside the point...



I'm also wondering about the system design, fundamentally...
One amp for subs (read: 1.5 of 10 audible octaves)
One amp for tweeters (read: 2 of 10 audible octaves)
What about the entire midbass, and midrange areas? :confused:

Typically, for a simple system, you have one amp running a subwoofer... and one amp running whatever speakers you have playing the rest of the audible spectrum...
...whether that's a pair of coaxial speakers, or a component set, or compression driver sets, or whatever.

One reason I'm asking is to gather if there is a third amplifier in the system... what is running the mids and/or midbass speakers?
If we are talking about three amplifers here - that might be taxing your remote turn-on wire - it can only support the turn-on of so many things.
I'd expect two amps to be fine, and usually even three isn't a problem.

But, if your symptoms are that the amps are TOTALLY off - no lights, no anything - then the remote wire simply isn't switching the amps on.
And, if that's the case, if you temporarily ran a jumper wire from the main power into your amp, and touched it to the remote wire terminal on the amp - the amp would power back on.
And if you measure voltage on the remote gain wire, you'll probably measure something less than 12v.

If both of these are true - then you simply need to wire in a relay to augment your remote turn on scenario.
It is really a piece of cake.
You simply want the remote wire from your head unit turning the relay on, and then the relay will switch and send power from your distribution block to the remote turn on for the amps - easy. :cool:

You weren't entirely clear whether the amps are not turning on (no lights or anything), or whether the amps are turning on, but not working.

But - from the symptoms you describe, it sounds like the first one...
...and in that case, I'd almost guess you have a cheapo head unit, and that you did actually damage it, by having too many things hooked up to it... although, like I said, two amps is hardly a strain on it.

IF that is the case - the solution is a new head unit, if that one isn't under warranty. ;)